I’ll tell you what I want – what I really, really want.

But first back to the last days of our Instow holiday. We went north to an old haunt – the Tarka Inn for lunch, dodging the showers and learned that it isn’t residential – just good grub. The weather didn’t encourage wandering up the trail so we called it a day and went back to our comfortable cottage.

There was something about the sound of Hartland, Hartland Quay and Hartland Point that caught my imagination and then when I saw photos I was hooked. Hartland is a small town about three miles inland from Hartland Quay where there is a hotel. From there is a thrilling walk up and down three miles, to the lighthouse at Hartland Point.

I’m not silly and I knew there was no way I could do this alone but it wouldn’t harm to do a bit of a recce so we drove to Hartland, parked by a handy (for lunch later) inn and I left MTL reading the paper whilst I went for a mosey. We didn’t want to risk three miles manoeuvring down a narrow lane so I started walking – just to see what it was like- towards Hartland Quay. It would be worth it if I could catch a glimpse of any of that dramatic coast but no matter how the road dipped and climbed the coast was hidden.

I passed the Abbey which was founded by St Nectar. It was the last monastery to be dissolved in 1539 and Henry V111 gave it to his Keeper of the Wine Cellar – Mr Abbot. There are lovely gardens apparently with paths designed by Gertrude Jekyll. Woodland gardens, a Bog Garden, Victorian Fernery and a secret 18C walled garden. There’s a gazebo overlooking the sea and the house and estate were used as a setting for ‘Sense and Sensibility.’

I was torn and tried to phone MTL but he was switched off! I decided to save these treasures for another time and walk a little further knowing I had to walk back before long. Interestingly the road was perfectly wide enough for two cars to pass with care. Halfway between Hartland and the coast is the little hamlet of Stoke with St Nectar’s Church - the ‘Cathedral of Devon.’ It was originally built as a thanksgiving for deliverance from a shipwreck and the 128’ tower rises in four stages – a landmark to sailors at sea before the lighthouse was built at Hartland Point. Maybe I could climb the tower and get the view I wanted.

When I reached Stoke and established from a lady kneeling in her garden that there were no taxis in Stoke, I took a photo, dismissed the thought of any unnecessary climbing and set off back to find my husband. I had been within one and a half miles of my goal but was now determined to – eventually one day - reach the Quay and maybe persuade a stalwart son to do the cliff walk with me.

Lunch at the handy inn was a great success and I had the best dish of the week: sword fish on a bed of sweet potato wedges with a mango and passion fruit salsa.

See photos below.